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Palm tree protection
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I have tried a few different methods of protecting small palms and the following is my new favorite for ease of installation and removal, sturdiness, level of protection, and easy summer storage. To prepare the site you need to clear the ground around where you going to put the cage so it's level and free of stems/trunks/plants etc. You also need to trim the crown so there's only about this many leaves left. Washingtonia's stems are way too stiff to easily bend into a desired position, so it's best to trim off any leaves that hang lower than 45 degrees to the trunk. |
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Next take cheap bird netting (it's some kind of plastic) and loosely wrap the crown. The idea here is to make the leaves gather in a tighter cylinder than what the plastic enclosure is going to be so that there's minimal leaf contact with the outside plastic. The netting also serves as a hanger for the C-9 Christmas lights. Newer Christmas lights are now being made of LEDs which are great for a low electric bill because of their high efficiency, but they're terrible for heating. A light bulb's inefficiency (heat) is exactly what we're looking for. The jugs are filled with water to act as a heat buffer. Water jugs are greatly misunderstood. They don't add heat to the enclosure, but they do slow down heat loss. As the air inside the enclosure loses heat through the side walls to the outside air, the water jugs release some of their heat into the air inside the enclosure, effectively slowing down heat loss. Water has a much higher heat capacity than air, but other dense objects would work like stone, brick, etc. But like everything else in physics, there's no such thing as a free ride. Just as it slows cooling at night the water jugs also slow heating during the day, but the whole idea is that the heat from the folowing day's sun is so powerful that there's plenty to go around. |
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The C-9 lights are wired to a thermostat to control their operation. I set my thermostat to the low 40s for Washingtonias. Yes, they can take low 20s with no damage, but they can't survive at that temp for a week at a time. Some people prefer to switch the lights on and off manually when necessary. I can see that this method might be useful when you only have a few emergency nights per winter, but mine are basically needed every night for 4 months. So in my case a thermostat saves electricity so the lights aren't on 24/7, only when necessary. The thermostat's sensor coils are positioned somewhere not too close to any light bulbs. The bulbs could give a false warm reading inside if they're too close. I wrap some bulbs up in the the crown by using the bird netting to support them, and some of the bulbs on the ground, but the bulk of the bulbs are wrapped loosely around the trunk because that is the growing point of the palm. Standard C-9 lights are 7 watts per bulb so it's easy to figure out your total wattage. A standard string of 25 bulbs would be 175 watts. It's important to keep track of the watts expecially if you're doing this with multiple palms. Most standard outlets have a 15 amp max which translates to 1800 watts. You should never try to max out your outlet because if you have a voltage fluctuation or turn anything else on, you'll blow the circuit breaker and you may not even know your palms are freezing to death. It's a good idea to limit a 15 amp outlet to 1500 watts or less. | |
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Next I roll fencing around the palm. This fencing could be called welded wire, wire fencing, galvanized fencing, etc. Get a height that will allow you to use the same enclosure for at least a couple of years. Dig a small trench under the fencing to allow your electric cord to enter. Then fill the trench back in. You don't want the metal fencing touching or pushing against your electric cord. You also don't want any places where plugs are exposed to the weather. You need an extension cord that plugs in to an inside outlet, or to an approved wet location outside outlet. The other end of the cord must be inside your enclosure. If not, you'll be asking for trouble. Where the 2 ends of the wire fencing meet, secure it with small pieces of wire, wire ties, short lenghts of rope, etc. Next I use metal stakes to secure the bottom of the wire fence to the ground. These aren't strong enough to prevent tipping of the structure, but will brace the bottom from shifting.
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Wrap the enclosure with plastic. You can buy greenhouse film specifically designed for this purpose, or you can buy cheap drop-cloth style plastic. They both work, but the greenhouse film will transmit more light and will last longer because it resists UV light from the sun. Cap the enclosure with some type of lid. I used a baby pool which is super convenient, but it doesn't provide much insulation value. Finally, use ropes to secure the top of the structure to either another object (like my fence), or to more stakes in the ground. This keeps the wind from knocking them over. These structures do have a pretty large surface area, so the wind will try to move them around. |
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How Many Lights?
Use my examples to get an idea of how many lights you'll need to adequately heat your enclosure. In this particular enclosure I have 3 sets of 25 lights and on average, I can expect the inside temps to be about 25 degrees above the outside temperature. My enclosure is about 3' diameter by 6' tall. So 525 watts produces about 25 degrees in this sized enclosure. There are so many variables so you need to plan accordingly. Windy nights will require more heat and I'll only get about 20 degrees above ambient. Cloudy, still nights may give me as much as 30 degrees. Double wrapped plastic with an airspace would have a higher r-value and therefore you'd get even higher numbers.I live in USDA zone 6b, so it's "normal" for winter lows to be just below zero. We haven't been below zero in quite a few winters, but it can happen. Let's do some quick math. If it drops to 0 and it's windy, I'm only heating the inside to 20 degrees, which for a Washingtonia is probably complete defoliation. If it drops to -5 and it's windy, then the inside temps are only 15 which is likely death of the palm. What I'm relying on is the water jugs. Not only do they slow down the cooling by having a high heat capacity, they have an EXTREMELY high heat of fusion which means it takes a LOT of heat loss to freeze the jugs. So as the water tries to drop below 32, it stays at 32 and keeps releasing its heat to the enclosure until all the water turns to ice. After that it just acts like a jug of water again as it keeps dropping in temperature. In retrospect I should probably have 1 more set of lights in there to give me a better security blanket. It doesn't cost any more to run the extra lights because they would just run in shorter cycles under normal conditions. The only added cost would be the lights themselves. I will probably put more lights inside for the future.
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